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Vince Aletti’s Obsessive Collection of Seminal Fashion Magazines

Maria Wallace by Maria Wallace
September 7, 2023
in Fashion Magazine
0

In 1976, the photography critic and curator Vince Aletti moved into an East Village condo in a Beaux Arts-fashion construction on the nook of Second Avenue and Twelfth Street. He became thirty-one years old and an author for the magazine Record World. The condo—inside the same construction as his friend Robert Christgau, the Village Voice rock critic, and throughout the road from some other friend, the photographer Peter Hujar—changed into a three-bedroom on the 6th floor, with natural light in every room. He talked the landlady down from 3 hundred and fifty dollars a month to three hundred and signed a two-year rent, which he has been re-signing biannually because. The building, which dates again to 1902, has to see that end up a co-op, but a few tenants (Aletti among them) have been allowed to stay on as hire-stabilized stalwarts; he instructed me that he would never be capable of affording the vicinity at the full rate. (A comparable unit inside the building is currently in the marketplace for more than $1.1 million.) It’s a great component. He doesn’t have to circulate because it would be an ordeal. In the four-plus decades that Aletti has lived inside the apartment, he has crammed it to the brim with a substantial series of magazines and other “printed ephemera” that have been an obsession of his, considering he labored as a counter clerk at the unconventional, underground, and now defunct bookstall Peace Eye, off Tompkins Square Park, in the late sixties.

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Vince Aletti’s Obsessive Collection of Seminal Fashion Magazines 1

Aletti’s condominium, which I visited on the latest afternoon, is in a nation of what one could call managed chaos. It isn’t always a hoarder’s condominium, per se; no marvel dead animals lurk in corners, no worry that an ancient cup of yogurt might roll out from beneath a settee. There is not a dust bunny in sight. But it’s miles the rental of a person with many problems, in the most literal experience. Aletti cohabits with heaps and lots of magazines. (His guesstimate: “Ten thousand, without difficulty. Could be double that.”) They are piled everywhere—in the front hallway, the living room, the eating room, the bedrooms and the closet, and the shower. He collects all kinds—art magazines, smut magazines, interior-design magazines, rock magazines—with a special hobby in style and homosexual guides, like a nineteen-thirties guys’ magazine called Bachelor, which examines like Vanity Fair however covertly included homosexual subjects.

Some of his archives are sorted by using mag or via topic. A giant cupboard within the foyer contains every problem that he has been able to locate of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar; his eating room is generally dedicated to his “body cloth,” or small mid-century magazines devoted to male bodybuilders, which he scoops up from eBay for much less than a dollar each. (The room, wherein we sat eating sugar cookies that Aletti had purchased from a local Jewish bakery, has bare men anywhere, along with framed pix published on ceramic plates and in stacks of vintage snapshots.) But most magazines are in random order, sprinkled throughout the thousand-square-foot space. He informed me that while looking for a particular problem, it could take three days to locate it through the stacked series, which is the basis for a new ebook referred to as “Issues” from Phaidon, which focuses entirely on his series of fashion material. He first conceived of the ebook in 2009 while co-curating an exhibition at the International Center for Photography about the legendary fashion photographer Richard Avedon, who shot for Vogue, Bazaar, and Life from the 1980s through the nineteen-eighties (and who became The New Yorker’s first group of workers photographer, in 1992, a role he held till his loss of life, in 2004). Looking through Avedon’s archive, Aletti, who became a pictures critic at The New Yorker for decades, determined that “a whole lot of potential first-rate pictures existed only in magazines,” having in no way been made into prints. Aletti then realized that, for a protracted while, style magazines were doing the paintings of galleries and museums, curating and displaying first-rate-artwork pictures earlier than pictures changed into usual as a valid artwork form and before photo galleries and museums even existed. For artists like Avedon and Irving Penn, who shot for Bazaar and Vogue, “magazines have been a way to get their work out into the arena.”

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